By far the final chart was the most challenging in terms of concentration required to establish the pattern. There was also a lot of carry-overs in this section with spans of 6-8 stitches, meaning that midway through it was important to wrap the inactive color behind the active one so that there wouldn’t be too long of a loop inside the hat. The tactic paid off, as the inside of the finished hat was nice and orderly.
The final decrease section was easy to handle, especially with the directions suggesting to place markers every 12 stitches, marking the decrease points. Super-simple with alternating rounds of decreases and knitting around to create a nice even slope shape to the hat.
Even though the wool was super-wash, I still blocked it by washing the hat in cold on the normal wash cycle, inside a lingerie bag. You can see the difference in the unblocked and blocked versions, with the washing and blocking evening out the fair isle stitches. For blocking, I use interlocking foam flooring like you see at day care centers, and rust-proof t-pins.
unblocked- hat was rippled with loose and tight stitches at points of color changes
blocked- loose and tight stitches evened out after washing in normal cold cycle (in lingerie bag)
At long last, the hat is complete! My husband loves the slouchy beanie style and the softness of the yarn which is washable and blocks nicely. I heartily recommend this pattern to anyone interested in trying out fair isle. Much thanks to the designer, Mrs. Luedeke.
Things are chugging along! This post covers the lettering, red circle design next to the lettering, and white top border portion of The Force Awakens hat pattern by Mrs. Luedeke, available for free here. Parts one and two are on the right hand side of our website, www.stitchingbevy.com.
Prior to starting on this section, I changed the lettering chart to read Rogue One, using a pencil and an extra-light copy of the original chart. Since there were fewer letters than The Force Awakens, I centered those and added in the circular design in the blank spaces.
The foundation row of any fair isle pattern is essential to get things rolling so it requires major concentration and a quiet place to work. I know firsthand because I had to backwards knit to undo the first row two separate times. The first was because I somehow forgot the “U” and the second was due to being off on one of the circle design sections. I realized this in the second row both times, even when using a post it note to cover up the chart except for the row I was working on. The human mind seeks to insert patterns once they are learned and sometimes that can work against you! For the circle design, I forgot to insert the first black stitch so I was off count on the second row of the pattern gleefully following the established pattern I had just learned.
It’s also important to not get mixed up on your colors if you use different ones than the pattern calls for. The chart being grey scale can help, but in my case, the colors were reversed in some spots so I had to create a key to keep things straight. You could even go through and color in the chart to match your yarn colors to keep things simple. More tips on reading fair isle charts here.
After requiring the force to help me get the first row of the lettering and circle pattern established, the rest went a lot faster. I’ve found that with fair isle, the rows themselves aren’t hard to focus on if you can cover up the other rows; it’s the individual stitches in each row that can be hard to lose track, especially if you can’t really memorize a pattern set to move things along. Stopping to cover up each of those stitches would be a royal pain so double checking after 10 stitches or so can be a good way to monitor accuracy. I’m looking forward to the next section with the stormtrooper helmets!
This is the second part of a series of process notes on completing The Force Awakens Hat by Mrs. Leudeke (free pattern here). In this post, I’ll cover the ribbed edging and the first charted pattern. Part One can be found here
It was very easy to work with the Zara yarn and casting on was a breeze. The edging is a simple and stretchy K1P1 repeat and combined with the yarn, you can tell already that it’s going to be a nice fit.
Instead of doing a gauge swatch ahead of time, I used the method recommended for smaller in-the-round fair isle projects of knitting a couple of inches in pattern, then measuring gauge and adjusting needle size from there (if you end up a stitch off, rip out the work and start again on a different needle size).
Another thing to consider when knitting in the round: because you aren’t doing purl stitches, expect that your finished work will be slightly smaller. When knitting flat pieces, purl stitches are slightly larger than knit ones and they tend to even out when mixed with the knit stitches so there’s no real impact. On top of that, color work can also pull in the finished work slightly smaller because of carrying the yarn across colors. This actually works to my benefit because I have perhaps the loosest gauge in the galaxy.
As I mentioned in my last post, I always got frustrated with color work because inevitably the two strands of yarn would get wrapped around each other and the back of my work would be a mess…until this life-saving information found in Knitting for Dummies by Allen, Barr & Okey (this book is about 10 years old but full of excellent, basic info and has good patterns to try, too).
When working with two colors, choose one color to be the “over” and the second to be the “under.” In my case, the white was “over” and the red “under.” When you get ready to switch colors, bring the new color “over” the color you just dropped. Then when you switch again, bring the color “under” what you just dropped. Keep working this way all around the row and you won’t believe how much faster you can knit and more even the work looks in the front and the back! What helped me was keeping the two balls of yarn apart, one by my left leg and the other by my right. That way there was no temptation to twist the strands. Just be sure to not carry over your colors too tightly- spread out your stitches before going “over” or “under” with the next color. It turned out I ended up not needing my bobbins after all so I set those aside.
So far I’ve completed the ribbed edging and the tie fighter chart. The next step will be the lettering, which will require more focus.
With the new year upon us and having seen another great Star Wars movie over the holidays about a dozen times, I am stoked to try my hand at this awesome fair isle “The Force Awakens” Hat pattern by Hannah L. It is available for free download from Ravelry and her website: http://www.mrsluedeke.com/patterns/the-force-awakens-hat/
My plan is to track the construction of this hat on our website, over several parts for as long as it takes, to encourage others to give fair isle a try. I don’t have much color work experience, but I have done a pair of valentine’s mittens and cowl using a charted heart I found on Pinterest, along with a cute pair of realistic kitten face mitts from a kit that Emily got me a few years back. That was a challenge!!!
As this hat will be for my husband Craig, he came with me to our LYS to select three colors of his choice, with white being the main color. He quickly chose black and red for empire colors. The pattern calls for sport weight yarn (a size 2 on the universal yarn weight chart) so we went with Zara’s 100% merino. Each ball is 50 g/1.75 oz and approximately 136.5 yards/125m. One ball of each color should do the trick. Since this is going to be an intricate and time-consuming project and worn for years, I had no qualms about spending $11.50 per ball. You could likely find comparable sport weight yarn in a different price range since solid colors aren’t that difficult to locate.
Along with the yarn, I gathered some bobbins for winding the different colors and my hot pink size 6 circular and matching double pointed needles. I’m also brushing up on my fair isle tips by reading some of my knitting books, as a form of mental preparation. I also plan to do a 4 inch swatch just to be safe and get some practice on working the charts.
As a final custom touch, Craig was suggesting replacing “the force awakens” lettering with “Rogue One” or another Star Wars title. I copied the chart on a lighter contrast setting (not shown) so he can work out the lettering for that particular chart, since it works around the hat. Being a statistician, he will enjoy working out the mathematics on the lettering!
Overall, this should be a fun yet challenging project. My biggest beef with color work is handling the crosses in the back and remembering to carry the yarn over longer spans of stitches without getting everything in a tangle. I’ll show some process photos in Part 2.
We are nearly ONE month away from the wearable art show and sale in the Shop @ DG at Dandelion Gallery. The show will feature a range of handmade and re-purposed clothing and accessories by Lake County area artists. Click on the PDF of our event flyer below and spread the word!
There is still time to enter your work- check the right side of the page for the link to an earlier blog post with more information about our artists’ call. Work drop off deadline is August 15, 5-7 p.m.
Artwork needs to be wearable by adult humans (includes fantasy non-human costumes), well-constructed and handmade.
NOT ALLOWED: reselling, direct marketing (like Jamberry, knock offs, Silpada jewelry), 0r mass-produced items . No kids’ items- we may consider having a kids-themed show for a future event.
Artwork must be durable and well-constructed. Badly constructed items will not be displayed for sale.
Upcycled and repurposed materials are great and highly encouraged! Make sure items are clean and safe to wear. We will have an upcycled challenge- stop by our Dandelion Gallery info table from 5-9 p.m. at the June 18th and July 15 Art Wauk to sign up to select a plain item to transform and drop off by August 15!
No fees, Gallery keeps 40% commission for any item that sells.
Artists are responsible for any racks or other special forms of display for their items (hangers, hat forms, tables, etc.). We will have some table and shelf space.
If you would like to submit items for the show, it’s super-simple!
Post a picture of your items and a general description on our Facebook event page or email us this info: email@example.com
Make sure each piece of your work is clearly priced and identified with your contact information. You will also provide contact information when you drop your items off.
Drop off your artwork Monday August 15, 5-7 p.m. at Dandelion Gallery, 109 South Genesee Street, Waukegan, IL 60085. If you are not able to make that drop off date, have a friend bring your items by.
Pick up your work directly after Art Wauk on Saturday, August 20 starting at 9:00 p.m. OR Sunday, August 21, 10-2 p.m. If you are not able to make those pick up times, have a friend collect your items. We will not mail items back to artists.
Payment will be made 1 month after the event concludes and checks will be mailed to you.
One would think with the endless Victorian era patterns for knitted and crocheted household do-dads and accessories that there would be a large selection of basic mitts, fingerless gloves, or muffatees on record. Oddly enough, there isn’t, though these items show up frequently in photographs of all social classes during the Victorian Era. One might see knitted or crocheted shawls, vests, bonnets, mufflers/scarves, purses and the like, but not as many gear for hands.
Most of the hand-wear that you see illustrated in these publications appears to be densely knitted or crocheted out of wool yarn. You can achieve the same effect using worsted weight wool on size 3,4, or 5 double pointed needles to get a strong, long wearing fabric. Some pattern designers have developed modern directions based on historical documents which make them easier to follow. We have also created free patterns for a basic Civil War men’s mitt and women’s longer fingerless gloves that are easy to work up in camp and will be suitable for a variety of impressions.
Outerwear for hands and wrists go by many names and most are interchangeable. Mittens can refer to what we think of as the rounded cover for the fingers with a thumb, or they can mean what we think of now as a fingerless mitt. A muffatee is a type of mitten but it mostly fits on the wrist, also referred to in older patterns as a cuff. Some muffatees have a simple opening slit in the side for the thumb while others are ornate cuff styles.Wristlets are typically worn below the fingers since there is no thumb hole. We refer to them today as arm warmers which also existed during the Civil War (leg warmers did too!).
As far as colors go, you can’t go wrong with naturals like browns, greys, whites, and black. But don’t be afraid to use bright colors like red, scarlet, acid green, yellow, orange, blue, or purple/violet. Stipes, solids, and more ornate patterns were also common, such as in these brown and ivory wool Shetland wristlets below. Using yarn from locally sourced artisans like Suzy the Shepherdess brings your accessories up several notches, plus there’s the satisfaction in knowing you are supporting small, ethical businesses that care for their animals! The men’s mittens below were made from such yarn and very easy to work with.